Once Taboo, More Japanese Women Are Brewing Sake

OKAYA, Japan — Early in the morning, Mie Takahashi, a sake brewer from her family's 150-year-old brewery called Koten, checks the temperature of the mixture fermenting in a large tank. This tank holds over 3,000 liters of a bubbling mixture made of steamed rice, water, and koji mold. Mie uses a long paddle to stir the mixture, knowing that the morning hours are vital in the sake brewing process.

Takahashi, aged 43, represents a small group of female toji, or master sake brewers. In Japan, only 33 women are registered as toji within the Toji Guild Association, which oversees over a thousand sake breweries across the country. This number is an increase compared to several decades ago when women were largely kept out of sake production.

Sake brewing has a long history, extending back over a thousand years and rooted deeply in Japan’s Shinto religion. During the Edo period (1603-1868), when sake production was industrialized, a tacit rule emerged that prohibited women from participating in brewing. The reasons for this ban remain unclear, but some believe it stemmed from an idea that women were impure due to menstruation, preventing them from entering sacred spaces. Others suggest that as sake production grew and harsher labor became necessary, tasks were viewed as unsuitable for women.

Today, the rise of women in sake brewing is attributed to the gradual breaking down of gender barriers and a decreasing workforce due to Japan's aging population. "While the industry is still predominantly male, there's a growing emphasis on an individual's passion for the craft rather than their gender,” says Takahashi.

Modern technology is also playing a role in this shift. At Koten, machines now assist with heavy lifting and transporting steamed rice, tasks that would typically have been done by hand. This mechanization allows more women to engage in the labor-intensive process of brewing sake.

Sake, also known as nihonshu, is created by fermenting steamed rice with koji, which transforms starches into sugars. Earlier this month, UNESCO recognized this ancient brewing tradition as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Takahashi grew up not being allowed to enter her family’s brewery, but at age 15, she was finally shown around and became captivated by the bubbling fermentation process. “I was fascinated to learn that those bubbles were created by unseen microorganisms,” she recalls, despite being too young to drink alcohol. Inspired, she pursued a degree in fermentation science and later returned to her family's brewery after ten years of training, eventually becoming a master brewer at 34.

In the peak season of winter, Takahashi oversees seasonal workers as production increases. The work requires intense effort, involving heavy lifting and mixing vast quantities of brew. The role of a master brewer requires extensive knowledge to ensure that the koji mold grows optimally, which necessitates constant monitoring.

Despite the demanding nature of the job, Takahashi fosters a sense of teamwork in the brewery. She believes that a positive atmosphere is crucial, saying, “If the atmosphere in the brewery is tense, the sake will turn out harsh; if the atmosphere is good, the sake will be smooth.”

The increase in female brewers is seen as an essential factor in sustaining the sake industry, which has experienced a decline since its peak in the 1970s. With domestic alcohol consumption falling, many small breweries are struggling to find new talented brewers. According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, total production today is only about a quarter of what it was 50 years ago.

To stay competitive, Koten is expanding its market both domestically and internationally. While the brewery's main product has always been dry sake, Takahashi's brother, Isao, who manages the business side, mentions that they are now exploring higher-value sake production. Every year, Takahashi creates a limited series of sake, called Mie Special, showcasing her innovative approach which goes beyond their traditional offerings.

“My sister wants to experiment with different yeast or lower alcohol content,” Isao says proudly. “I fully support her creative pursuits and strive to find a market for her unique creations.”

sake, brewing, women